“Clean” Skincare
What is “clean” skincare?
Although “clean” skincare is often used to describe cosmetics formulated without harmful chemicals (such as parabens, phthalates, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and synthetic fragrances), the marketing term is actually unregulated, meaning different people may have different definitions of what constitutes “clean”. This lack of regulation can be frustrating to consumers, who are forced to rigorously research their favorite brands’ ingredient lists, or be at risk of rubbing dangerous compounds onto their body’s largest organ every day.
Why prioritize clean skincare?
Cosmetics, despite being applied topically, can be absorbed by the skin, making their way into the blood plasma, and eventually into our organs (even into breast milk!). (This is why hormone replacement therapy can be prescribed as a cream, applied topically, and demonstrate efficacy.) Therefore, it is important to avoid cosmetics that contain toxic ingredients that can cause potential health issues if absorbed. Parabens, for example, found in a variety of cosmetics, can mimic estrogen in our body; they are considered “endocrine disruptors” because they cause hormonal/endocrine imbalances, which can have downstream effects on fertility, sexual function, and other phsyiological systems. Phthalates are another group of endocrine disruptors that might impact puberty and brain development in adolescents by their anti-androgenic effects.² Synthetic fragrance is yet another potentially dangerous ingredient, because a fragrance’s components do not have to be disclosed on a product’s ingredient list (instead, look merely for the words “fragrance” or “parfum” on the packaging). This means the fragrance could contain any combination of carcinogens, allergens, irritants, and endocrine disruptors.
One of my goals is to help consumers better understand labeling and marketing ploys, as well as have confidence reading ingredient lists. Take the current avoidance of preservatives, for example: some preservatives are safe and necessary in certain products, whereas others can damage the skin microbiome and potentially trigger dysbiosis. Also, many so-called preservatives are actually antioxidants, like Vitamin E (d-alpha-tocopherol), which slows the oxidation of oils and elongates the shelf-life and stability of a product. Another example of confusing misinformation is mineral versus chemical sunscreens. I advocate only for zinc oxide-based mineral sunscreens, never chemical sunscreens containing oxybenzone, octinoxate, or avobenzone. These chemicals have been shown to affect pregnancy outcomes, increase cancer risk, pose threats to the environment, and even impact our metabolic health.¹ Zinc oxide, on the other hand, is considered safe and protective due to its anti-microbrial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is even used as the main ingredient in rash ointments for babies’ sensitive and delicate skin.
However, new research is constantly shedding light on different chemicals in cosmetics and how they impact human health. What is now considered common knowledge can quickly become outdated, and given the lack of regulation within the cosmetic industry, it is often up to the consumer to have awareness and use that awareness to form their own judgements and opinions. Eating well, exercising, and lowering systemic inflammation will always be great ways to improve your skin from the inside-out; this is the “cleanest” skincare regimen we have access to.
References
1. EWG’s Guide to Sunscreens. The trouble with ingredients in sunscreens [Internet]. Ewg.org. [cited 2023 Jun 13]. Available from: https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/
2. Why phthalates should be restricted or banned from consumer products [Internet]. News. 2021 [cited 2023 Jun 13]. Available from: https://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/features/the-big-3-why-phthalates-should-be-restricted-or-banned-from-consumer-products/